Krakow

Mid train ride, I got a message from my couch surfing host saying that she could not be there until midnight. My options were to wait for her or take a taxi; these are two things I always fear in a foreign country: getting stranded alone at night and getting scammed. Without much background, this may seem normal, but leading up to the day I was arriving, the girl hadn't been very reliable with little communication. In fact, earlier in the day I had requested another couch surfer for an emergency couch since I did not think she was still planning for me to come. Additionally, when I called her with my friend's phone is Warsaw, there seemed to be an apparent language barrier. With stories of couch surfers' hosts never coming, leaving them stranded, I feared that the same would happen to me.

I had become friends with the other guy I was taking the train with, Adam, a technical physics major studying in Krakow. He soon asked if I'd like to watch a movie with him. Shocked I'd never seen pulp fiction, he soon set up his computer and we were soon enjoying the thriller. That is, until the couch surfer contacted me, which immediately made me nervous. Shortly after the initial message, however, I got a text from another number that said the person was leaving now and would be at the station soon. Extremely confused, I resolved to stay at a hostel and my new polish friend offered to walk me to one.

Upon arrival, I got a message that said the surfer was at the station waiting in a different area. Even more confused since I messaged the person that I would stay at a hostel, I figured I should let the person know not to wait.

I became even more confused when the person that came to pick me up was a boy, not a girl.... I soon quickly realized that the second phone number that was messaging me was not the original couch surfer I was planning on staying with. While I thought the two numbers were the same person, the second was was actually the surfer that I had contacted earlier that morning about hosting me as an emergency couch.

Excessively long story short, I made it to the second couch surfers house. The first apparently came looking for me much later, despite telling her I was not comfortable and would stay at a hostel. While I felt and feel terrible about the miscommunication, most importantly, I managed to stay alive and wasn't picked up by a rapist or stranded.

Day 1: Auschwitz

Tons of tour groups offer trips to Auschwitz for  approximately 140zl, which I was planning on booking (3.12 PLN for each US Dollar). My host, Krzysztof, refused to let me pay this, though, and told me how to get there by public transportation. Nearly two hours of tram and bus riding later, I was in the town of Oświęcim. The tour guide first took us to Auschwitz I, the camp with the famous gate that bears the motto "Arbeit Macht Frei” (Work makes one free) and location of the only remaining gas chamber.

We walked through the cramped living quarters, or rather "living" quarters as I wouldn't call that life. While a bunk bed is a familiar site, their bunks were something else. Much wider to fit more people than usual that would lay in one bed, and consisting of three levels, happy memories of childhood don't come to mind upon viewing them. Apparently the center bunk was the best; although the middle was cramped, tight quarters were the only major problem. By contrast, the bottom level sleepers had to lay in mud when it rained, and the top level sleepers had to fight any weather that leaked through the roof.

We also viewed rooms upon rooms that held the confiscated items of the members. Of all the rooms, the one that held mountains of the prisoners' hair was the most disturbing. After the gas chambers, everyone's head was shaved. Used to weave fabric, cloth that was created by the victims' hair was later tested to have the toxic gas. It was an undoubtedly eery feeling walking through the camp as I knew everywhere I stepped, some one had probably died there; in the gas chambers, who knows how many must have been murdered.

We then boarded a bus to Auschwitz II, Birkenau, the location of the famous railway picture and the home of the two larger but now destroyed gas chambers. Here, we also saw the latrines. Long buildings of a series of toilets and sinks where people had no privacy. Workers were allowed to use the toilet but twice a day, once before and after work. However, as the facilities were quite limited for so many people, only the strongest managed to use them.

The day was rainy and cold, an absolute miserable da, although quite fitting for such a depressing experience. Walking along the railway outside where the prisoners were dropped off, I couldn't wait for the tour to end just so I could be dry and warm again. The entire tour I couldn't help but think how I would have never survived. Sensitive to cold, I despise the 10 months in Chicago when it's winter. And yet, the people here lasted much colder weather in Poland with no proper clothing; emaciated, the prisoners had little personal insulation as well.

Upon returning to Krakow and meeting up with Krzysztof, I was cold and emotionally exhausted. When I went to buy grapes at the market, misread the prices twice due to poor labeling (all in polish) and became frustrated when I couldn't buy the correct item, I actually cried at the register.

Day 2: Salt Mines, Schindler's Factory, and Krakow town area
Hoping for a better day, Krzysztof helped me pick indoor things to see since the weather called for rain again. The salt mines were a tram and bus ride away to Wieczelka. Hundreds of metres below ground, the tunnels of the mines all carved out of salt were amazing. The floor looked tiled and the walls glistened. Incredible ice sculptures of dwarfs, pope John Paul II, and paintings such as the last supper decorated the caverns. In fact, several cathedrals were created for the miners. Despite the far journey from the surface, horses were also kept below to help with the labour. Because salt excavation from evaporation is cheaper, these mines are no longer functioning as they were in the past. Salt blocks worth great riches when the mines were in their hey day can be mass-produced for much less in the world. Regardless, the tour gave a beautiful overview of what used to be a vital part of the economy and salt industry.

A shift in cultural focus, I next headed to Kachimirez, the Jewish district, where the Schindler's Factory museum resides. Here unfolds the years of repression that the Polish Jews experienced; with information detailing everything from the ghetto to the concentration camps, the evidence of pure human cruelty permeates the museum walls. The name of the museum is Despite the title of the museum, but one small display is devoted to Schindler's involvement. And although a small display, his factories helped to save the lives of over a thousand Jewish Poles.

The day still early and the weather nice, I headed to the central market to see most of Krakow's most famous attractions. I thought Warsaw had a lot of Catholic churches, but Krakow undoubtedly beats the capital city for the sheer number of regal, decorated churches.  In my experiences in America, when I see a truly lavish church, it is rare, and when I do, it is usually the most beautiful in the area. By contrast, each and every cathedral I stepped into was breath taking. They were all of Hogwarts proportions, with high ceilings painted precisely, lined with the best molding, filled with hand crafted furniture,  and decorated with colorful stained glass and invaluable paintings. Additionally, many kept the remains of famous Poles or important persons.

Another notable set of structures are those related to what used to compose an important defense system: St. Florian's Gate and the Barbican. The barbican served as a main tower leading to the gate through which the , city could be entered. Although surrounded by gardens now, in the past, the entire city was once surrounded by walls.

The center of the downtown area is the Cloth Hall. Formerly the location where most trading and with between resident was done, it serves as a main tourist point of interest with countless restaurants, cafes, shops, and a few museums. A statue of one of Poland's famous poets, a large clock tower, and fountains also stand prominent.

Day 3: Castle, Polish Home Army Museum, and Underground Museum
I started my morning at Wawel Castle; I viewed the state rooms, crown treasury and armoury, and walked around Wawel hill, filled with several old buildings and fortifications. I ended my trip at the top of Sandomierska Tower, giving a view over the Vistula river to the other side of the city. I left the castle through the 'Dragon's Den', which was nothing more than large caves that lead to the exit. I guess since there is a legend that a voracious dragon used to live there, causing the entrance fee, but had I known how unexciting it would be, I would have preferred to spend my time elsewhere.

In retrospect a poor decision since it was so far, I walked to the Polish Home Army Museum. Normally I would have spent time at an art museum, but Krzysztof had heard from a friend that it was good and highly recommended it. Although it was in the middle of nowhere and not regularly visited, causing it to be much harder to find than I expected, I thought it was well worth it. In fact, I preferred it to Schindler's Factory and the Warsaw Uprising Museum. It gave an excellent account of the impact of the war on Poland and, in my opinion, a better overview rather than focus on a specific uprising or group of people.

Because I had a ticket for the Underground Museum at 6:15, my stay was shorter than I would have liked since the walk back to the center is quite far. Not too long ago, the layers below the Sukiennice were discovered to be filled with ancient streets in an archaeological dig. Displaying an old cemetary, cellers, and former shops, it gives a view of how the town used to look in the past. Unfortunately, I thought the presentation was quite juvenile, so I was a bit disappointed in it. Nevertheless, it was quite interesting to see the relics of the archaeological dig.

Day 4: Krakow Art Museum and ride to Budapest
As my bus didn't leave until 2:30 on my final day, I headed to the Krakow Art Museum in the morning. Since the museum had absolutely nothing written in English, I opted for an audio guide that gave a good overview of the artifacts. Unfortunately, I didn't have much time, so I didn't spend much time in the armour or decorative arts section, choosing to spend the little time I had on the paintings, which I prefer much more. Worried about the time, I literally ran to the bus station, where I met Krzysztof and found my bus to Budapest.