Budapest

I arrived rather late in the evening with no clue what to do once I got to the station; to be honest, I would have no idea how to find my hostel had another girl on the bus not known which train to take or the people walking around the area near my house not known which direction I should head. Nevertheless, I was rather calm and found my hostel after only a slight bit of confusion.

Zen Hostel is tiny, with only 2 rooms, a 3 person and an 8 person. However, it was the best hostel I've ever stayed at! Offered wine as soon as I checked in, Imi was the most helpful host (I say host because he was that personable) I could have imagined. Although I paid at check-in, he even offered to let me pay the following day. I only intended to stay one evening, but he also said it was fine if I left my items there all day. After I settled in, I went to a bar with another girl at the hostel to meet up with the same girl I met on the bus to Budapest. After a few attempts, the other girl and I could not find my bus friend, so we decided to head back to the main bar street. Then the most random thing happened -- I ran into one of the friends I had made at the Q-Center in St. Charles for Accenture, Guillaume.

Guillaume and I had spoke about potentially meeting up but had thought our days wouldn't overlap and gave up. We were literally walking down the street when we saw each other; I could not have had a better surprise! The other girl and I joined Guillaume and his friends at a bar for a drink, where we stayed for a little while before trying out another place.

Budapest is famous for their 'ruin pubs,' run-down  buildings re-purposed to be bars. The flavor is eclectic and unlike any other type of bar you've probably seen. Without knowing it, we headed to one of the famous ruin pubs. After a while, I was messaged by another friend from Chicago who was coincidentally also in Budapest, Kirk. However, by the time we finally got to the bar they were at, they were heading out to another bar; I joined Kirk and his friends, but Guillaume and his friends went to get food. The night didn't last much longer, though, and after a short while, I headed back to my hostel.

Day 2:
Having stayed up rather late the night before, I began my day with a free walking tour at eleven. The tour was excellent, giving a great overview of the history of Budapest. We walked across the famous Chain bridge lined with a pair of lions at each end. Like Pittsburgh, the hill on the other side of the bridge has an incline like structure that they call the Funicular. We opted to walk up the hill, instead, exploring the Buda Castle District. The top of the stairs led us to the Royal Palace, and from there we were able to see the beautiful Matthias Church and Fishermen’s Bastion just a few steps away. The views overlooking Buda Hill to the Pest side from the Fishermens Bastion were breath taking. After a terrific introduction to Budapest, the tour ended after around three hours. Myself and another tour attendee walked to the Gellert Statue on Gellert Hill, then walked back towards the Pest side to the Opera for a free outdoor show. We only caught a few minutes, but it was very interesting modern piece. The cast wore neon colors with Alice in Wonderland-esque make-up.

Nearing the end of the day, I headed back to the hostel to get my things, where Imi kindly let me call my host and I was able to move my stuff to Ramin's place literally a block from the hostel. I was shocked that, despite a great location by the opera and the common Andrassy Avenue, Ramin spends only 400 euros (if I recall correctly) a month. He has one bedroom, although the second floor bedroom split the kitchen ceiling in half; perhaps this might be a problem for tall people, but for myself and Ramin of the hobbit-type, it was no problem. Ramin has been living in Hungary for a few years working, but is not originally from there and as such, does not speak Hungarian and is currently taking classes.

After unpacking, I went to Saturday mass in Hungarian at St. Stephen's Basilica. I met up with Ramin at 6:15, and he showed me the main street, Andrássy Avenue, one of the most expensive streets lined with extravagant houses and high-end designer retail. At the end of the street lies Heroes' Square with the where the Millenium Memorial acts as the centerpiece. The Museum of Fine Arts and Palace of Arts flank the square on each side. Toward the back part of the square, Széchenyi Bath and Vajdahunyad Castle; from a distance, Ramin showed me both. After a long day of touring, I met up with Guillaume again, although we didn't stay up as late the second evening.

Day 3:
I started the day off at the Museum known as the House of Terror; right of Andrássy út, it contains the exhibits related to the fascist and communist dictatorial regimes in 20th-century Hungary and is also a memorial to those detained, interrogated, tortured or killed in the building. It was shocking to see such tragedies, and it was even more terrible that my American history education had never informed me of such inhumane acts that took place in this country. While I love America, the ignorance that it has left me towards the history of any country other than the U.S.A often makes me frustrated.

The tour guide from the previous day recognized the Castle in the Rock Museum, so I headed there next. Located on the Buda side, I literally ran the way there. This museum displays the Secret Emergency Hospital and Nuclear Bunker from WWII. It was only a brief hour-long tour, but gave a good view into the means that the citizens had to go through during those times.

Trying to get to a Red Communism Tour on the Pest side, again, I literally ran. Luckily, the tour guides were absolutely fantastic, and like the first tour, I learned countless facts about how the country encountered communism. With no tropical fruit, I heard how oranges became a coveted item during Christmas. Blue jeans were sold on the black market. Leaving the country was absolutely unheard of. We walked passed nuclear bomb shelters; I was even surprised to see a Ronald Reagan statue that was created to honor his efforts in ending communism.

I was shocked to see how communism and infiltrated every aspect of a Hungarian's life. I also felt blessed to be born in a country where communism was never a problem that I had to deal with.

Day 4:
Budapest is a relatively large city in comparison to Warsaw and Krakow. South of where I was staying, the Central Market Hall is a huge building holding hundred of market stalls selling meats, produce, and various souvenirs. I started my day at the hall, buying a postcard, shotglass, and small toy for Juli. On the Buda side, Gellert Hill, which I briefly stopped at on my first day of touring, was my next stop. Crossing the green liberty bridge, I ran towards the foot of the hill where the famous Gellert Hotel and Baths mark the entrance. I walked to the top of the hill where I saw the ginormous Liberty Statue; although it was built by the Soviet Army to commemorate the success in the second world war, it now honors those who sacrificed their lives for Hungary's prosperity. From the peak of the hill, I was able to get views down the gorgeous Danube river. Of course I was reminded of the view from Mount Washington in Pittsburgh, where rivers cross the city as far as one can see. Walking further, I passed the Gellert Statue again, walking across the Chain Bridge to my third and final tour of the Jewish Community.

At one point in history, people of Jewish descent were restricted to a Jewish quarter. As a result, there is a certain district on the Pest side of the city with a high concentration of Jewish buildings and synagogues. In fact, the largest Synagogue in Europe is located here. The tour guide took us on a walk through the sites, giving us the sad details of the Jewish tradition but also the positive hope in recent years.

I ended my day the best possible way -- by going to Széchenyi Bath. I met up with Jan, one of the other tourists on the first tour that I took. Meeting around seven, we spent the next three hours soaking in the various baths and even trying the saunas at the end. By the end of my stay, I was completely relaxed. After running everywhere around the city, it was a perfect evening. It was also nice that Jan had invited me; although relaxing, it would have been quite lonely to go alone.

Day 5:
My final day in Budapest began at Budapest's Fine Arts Museum. By Heroes' Square, it wasn't too far from my host's flat. With El Grego, Francisco de Goya, and other famous painters, I was surprised at the extensive collection that was displayed. I was in love with every gallery.

I booked a Parliament tour in the afternoon, so had to duck out early to run towards the west side of the Pest part of the city. Unfortunately, since it was Tuesday, Parliament was in session and the tour was cut short. As a result, I only saw the entrance hall to the building, as well as the crown jewels. I was a bit disappointed in the poor tour quality, and the fact that it had cut so much time from my day. Nevertheless, I headed back to the art museum to finish  viewing the pieces.

One of the places I was told that I must see was Margaret island. Positioned between Buda and Pest, it is merely a small island with a park and some baths. I was actually disappointed in the general normalcy of the island and was expecting something more special for how many great things I had heard about it. Nevertheless, I ran around the island, getting spectacular photos of the city skyline.

Before I knew it, it was time to return home and take the bus to Bratislava.