Munich

I woke up slightly late at four am (the sarcasm should be unquestionable) for my carpooling lift the next morning with a bittersweet feeling. I was ready for my next adventure but had an amazing time with Mario and Carina. Recommended by a couch surfer, carpooling was my form of transportation to Munich. Drivers post on the website their departure and arrival destinations and times, and offer to drive others wanting a lift. Needless to say, like my first experience using couch surfing, I was extremely nervous about using the site. Potentially the driver might not show up.I suppose in worst case scenario, potentially you could meet the next Charles Manson. What was reassuring, though, was that the driver had a picture and many reviews, and I was also able to speak with him on the phone, confirming his English ability and hinting that he was a really nice guy.

Mario and Carina (God bless their hearts) drove me for the six am departure to a nearby station where we said our goodbyes, and even at goodbye Carina was overwhelming sweet. Constantly needing to borrow lotion with my persistently dry hands and only carrying a terrible bottle that I bought in Budapest, she gave me her favorite lotion. In addition, she gave me one of her amazing almond-fig raw chocolate bars.

The driver ended up being a really nice guy. He also works in IT consulting for a company whose name I didn't recognize. While he had heard of Accenture, he didn't have the best feelings towards it unfortunately. Upon maybe the fourth piece of fruit that I ate I'm the front seat beside him, he commented that I must really like fruit. I did him that this fact was obvious, but that I was also vegan. I was shocked when he said that he had actually tried being vegan and would like to be! He had tried for a week, but found the options uninteresting at his works cafe, where he usually had to settle for a salad. We talked about it for a bit and I gave him assume advice as to what works for me. What helps most, I told him, was to prepare in advance by packing snacks and looking up restaurants and their menus beforehand. When most of your meals become tasty, it isn't as bad when you have to settle for a plain salad once in a while.

I stopped my luggage at the train station and quickly began touring the city. Climbing the stairs out of the underground train, I was immediately standing in Marienplatz, the main town square. Directly next to the square, virtualkienmarkt is an open market where fresh fruit, nuts, spices, souvenirs, and many different traditional German foods are sold. Frauenkirsch, just another few steps in the opposite direction, is one of Munich's most famous churches. The two towers rise high in the air, enabling citizens to see the church from a great distance. Yet just a few more steps away, the residence palace and it's accompanying theatre were my next stop. Having been to countless museums and buildings in my trip thus far, I was starting to become exhausted from viewing them. I was very nervous about deciding to go in and immediately betting noted, but quite the contrary was true. The interior of the building was spectacular. The large.time with high ceilings were painted with murals, lined with magnificent paintings, and filled with age-old sculptures. My favorite room had the walls and center piece covered with sea shells; although in need of restoration, I can only imagine how splendid the room must have looked in its hey day.

Schloss Nymphenburg, a palace for the royalty centuries ago, was a U-bahn and a tram ride away. The palace was huge. I did not enter the building but instead opted to run through the gardens. Although beautiful, I think the palace in Vienna was more impressive for its extensive gardens, fountains, and statues.

The day was nearly over, so I met up with someone I met at a hostel in Kyoto, who was going to introduce me to her friend, Leni. Leni met us at a burger king after her work, where we stopped at a bar, then headed back to her place.

Having run but one the entire trip, I wine you the next morning earlier than usual and ran from her place to the English Gardens. I always love thinking, but have to admit that the run could have been better if it weren't rainy and dreary. I was a bit frustrated and upset, because my trip was planned around visiting Tobi and he planned very poorly, seeming to disregard me despite having owned months before. This caused me to have to shift everything, but I'll focus on the happier moments in Europe. Around eleven, Tobi came over and we took the train to Regensburg, a town about a half an hour away from the city. Unbeknownst to me, Regensburg is a UNESCO site, and many parts are hundreds of years old. I forget the exact age of the cobbled paths and bridge now, but they were erected nearly a thousand years prior. Perhaps it was the poor weather, but I don't find Munich to be a beautiful city like the other European cities I visited; by contrast, just a small town, Regensburg seemed to have a quaint, special character about it.

To keep on schedule with the trains, we inky stayed for an hour or so before heading to an even smaller town nearby to see a famous Hundertvasser tower. Built as part of a brewery, it maintains the same characteristic and quirky details that other hundertwasser creations always display. This town was cute as well, but I could live in neither add they are quite tiny and distant from anything else. We headed back to Munich and hung out at Tobi's flat before returning to Leni's.

The following morning, I took a quick trip to the Munich Olympic stadium. The second Olympic stadium I have seen (Beijing was the other), it didn't seem spectacular, but rather a lot of open space. I made a quick stop at the nearby BMW museum which showcased all of their new models, then headed to the English Gardens. I heard the gardens were beautiful, which is why I made a point to see them, but I was also disappointed with them. But a park, they lacked anything unique, and it's 'Chinese pagoda' was a colorless, lifeless brown tower. I didn't stay long and headed to C&A to find a dirndl.

Although  C&A is a large chain,the store that I went to was just passed Marienplatz. I got to enjoy some live music and random entertainment on the walk there. I found the dirndl section easily as it was the middle of Oktoberfest, and lucky enough, the smallest size fit! I paid 64 euros for it, but figured every girl probably needs one. (Also the easiest Halloween costume ever.)

I met up with Tobi again, quickly changed at his flat and then headed off to the fest. If you plan ahead, people reserve tables, where for 30 euros, you get half a chicken and two large beers (I believe a liter). (This was another source of disappointment for me as Tobi invited me to the table, but when I arrived in Munich, there was no space and I had to meet up with him several hours after he and his friends arrived.) Arriving at the end of Tobi's table reservation, the group headed out of the beer tent to go on some of the many carnival rides at the fest.

Although I was aware of the beer drinking aspect of Oktoberfest, I had no idea it was also a small amusement park. Honestly, when drinking, I haven't the slightest interest in something that will spin me around; similarly, while rides excited me when I was younger, I no longer had the desire to go on them. Needless to say, I was surprised that so many older people found such amusement in them. The merry-go-round was quite interesting, however. Positively the slowest moving carousel I've ever ridden, the center of the structure was not a music house but instead a bar. As I don't drink beer, I ordered a half beer-half lemonade drink. These half beer drinks are quite popular in Germany, which also surprised me. Perhaps it's my American way of thinking, but it seems to emasculate and/or bastardize the whole concept of a good beer. While I don't enjoy beer, I respect that many fine beers can be had.

We left to join another beer tent, but despite paying an entrance fee, could not enter the tent. We left and headed to a restaurant where I could unfortunately only sit and watch other people eat. The tone of this blog is perhaps not the happiest, but to be honest, it wasn't.  Traveling always comes with unexpected challenges, but it was upsetting that the reason for planning my trip around these dates so that I could visit my friend ended up being the least planned and enjoyable and most stressful of the entire trip. While my opinion is probably highly refuted by many, I didn't find Oktoberfest to be the ultimate beer drinking extravaganza as its paraded to be and think it's safe to say that the USA can darty harder.

I woke up far too early the next day to pack and leave for Berlin the next day, but I was excited to catch up with a high school friend and see another side of Germany.

Vienna

Arriving late at night, my couch surfing host was still awesome enough to pick me up at the train station when I got off the bus. Like my previous bus trip, I was lucky enough to talk to a friendly guy who let me use his phone to call her. Otherwise, who knows if I would've ever found her among the several exits to the station. She took me back to her flat, where we enjoyed a vegan pastry,  then went to bed.

The following morning, Carina first took me on a walk to the top of the mountain beside her house. Upon reaching the top, I was able to get an amazing view of Vienna, as well as see a cute hostel nested beside a vineyard and an extravagant hotel. We then took the bus to Sici Palace, an extravagant palace with well manicured gardens filled with large fountains and statues. Electing to see the gardens only and not enter the palace itself, we took the U-bahn back to the city center. We first stopped at Vienna's first vegan grocery store on the way. By chance, the owner, Jan, was there when I visited and I was able to speak with him. Despite being vegan for around a year, he has embraced the lifestyle so much that he decided to create the new store. When I asked him what he suggested in buying, he led me to a nougat which he apparently sells more than grocery bags. Of course I picked one up to try.

The getting of the store has a small cafe and before leaving, Carina and I split a meal with rice flavored with bets, as well as a vegetable dish mixed with collard greens and mushrooms. Stuffed to the brim, we walked around the city center, which includes Stephansdom, the prominent church in all touristy Vienna photos. By chance, we also walked into a symphony practice at another church, which was a surprisingly nice treat.

Already hungry, we stopped at a cupcake shop.to eat one of the best cupcake I have ever eaten in my life, a vegan chestnut variety. Still.hungry, we headed to a two month old vegan ice cream place called Veganista. With every flavor made with vegan ingredients, I was overwhelmed with the choices. Nevertheless, I settled on matcha and cookies (like cookies and cream) to finish our walk through the city.

It was Carina's last day of work the following day, so we headed to.the grocery store and then home to make a few goodies for her co workers.  Despite being simple, her tomatoe pastry was delicious. I was also amazed that she could make such fabulous cakes with no measuring tools or recipes. Everything she did was impromptu. Needless to say, I devoured her homemade delicacies.

Since Carina had to work, I had the morning to myself, so I decided to go to Belvedere, which is composed of three art galleries. Focusing.on different periods, I.was able to.get a nice overview of art while viewing the spectacular architecture and paintings if the Belvedere buildings. I will say that the contemporary art exhibits were quite    Meet up with Carina to see opera house, secession building, Naschmarkt where the variety of vegetables and fruit available is much greater and you can get fifteen falafel for three euros, Hundertvasser  houses, walked through the city and stopped at another ice cream place with vegan options, meet up with Michael at Rupp's pub and got vegan goulash and schnitzel  and apfelstrudel with vanillesauce

Day 3:
After a very late start, I was off to the Fine arts museum with Mario at noon. Despite being full of gorgeous paintings, since I have been to so many art museums recently, I get as though I wasn't appreciating the works of art any longer. Nevertheless, I spent  several hours there before heading to the connected museum to see Roman ruins, coats of armour, and various instruments. A bizarre albeit interesting mix of artifacts to end the day.

Since Mario's English wasn't very good, we also had many translation adventures. I learned that pleated skirt can be 'crease rock' with just a space. And unfortunately I forgot the word that translated to 'sip hummingbird'. We arrive home around six and after a quick break left for a restaurant, which was a sort of mix between a winery and restaurant.
The set up of the restaurant was something I had never experienced. We ordered the food first and were served our meals on trays. Then we headed to the seats that we reserved, where we would be served drinks. I  ordered a tofu noodle dish but unfortunately it was terrible so I ended up eating a spinach strudel. Carina and Mario also ordered a mushroom quiche which was delicious. We spent some time just chasing then headed home where I ate way too much of her amazing homemade hazelnut chocolate and coconut chocolate cake for dessert. This night was another example of a couch surfing experience that I can cherish. Simply as a tourist, I would never have had the knowledge to come here. As a seemingly well known type of restaurant, I'm glad to have had the Vienna experience.

Day 4: Vienna countryside
My plans weren't definite and I wasn't sure if I should stay in Sunday or not, but I am extremely happy I did. After going to mass at a church by their flat, we headed to her home town, which is also very close to Mario's. On the way, we passed another hundertvasser masterpiece, an incinerator. Despite the rather unenvironmentable purpose of an incinerator, seeing hundertvasser's take on it was quite beautiful. His characteristic bright colors, jagged shapes, an extensive use of plant life made the building an obvious hundertvasser work.

We first stopped in the middle of a vineyard, where we climbed to the top of a building to get a view of the countryside. Purple and green grapes covered every inch that one could see in the distance. After, we headed to Carina's father's home, where her brother and sister still live. Her sister, Silke, works in the city but endures an hour plus commute daily so that she can take care if her two horses. Her brother takes a large role in the vineyard and farm tasks with her father.
After meeting her grandparents, we walked through the area that they create the wine and schnapps in. It's incredible how many bottles that they produce for such little labor. I tried a vegan stromb, and her father said that since this batch was successful, they were going to convert all of their current wines to a vegan production process. (Many wines are not vegan because the filtering process utilizes gelatin from pigs.) After, we headed to the traditional wine cellars below the earth, where I was able to try several of their wines; my favorite was a mix of red wines.

After the wine tasting, we went to a llama farm whose purpose is to educate  rather than to produce b meat. Unfortunately the alpacas were scared so I want able to get really close up unless the owner put them in a leash, but it was refreshing and surprising to  find out that the male owner was also vegan.
With time to spare, we went to one if her father's close friend's horse farms then headed to the Czech Republic, just a few kilometers away. With a much lower cost of living, Carina told me that her sister comes here for three euro pizzas. Next, we headed back to her father's house where I took a nap before we headed to dinner.

Although I wasn't aware, the restaurant Schillingers is a famous vegan restaurant about an hour from Vienna in the suburbs. Since we were already out of the city, Carina made a reservation for us. I was extremely excited as this restaurant has been vegan for five years. Carina also told meet that.when Pamela Anderson comes to Vienna, she.had her food cater from them. Additionally, the restaurant also caters a vegan menu for a kindergarten school and many people have transferred their children to this school just for the vegan menu.
Ready for some excellent vegan dishes, I ordered the special, a vegan chicken with fried potatoes and a pumpkin mash. Carina ordered a meat stew with dumplings, and mario ordered cordon bleu (all vegan). I loved the chosen, but the mash was quite salty and the potatoes were plain. I thought that Carina's dumplings were excellent, as well as Mario's cordon bleu. Of course there's always room for desert, and I ordered nougat dumplings and shared with Carina, who ordered chocolate pancakes. I thought the dumplings were spectacular.

We stayed at the restaurant much longer after we finished, simply talking and enjoying each other's company. Around ten we headed home, and I was exhausted.

Bratislava

Luckily, the other guy in the train car turned out to be really friendly. From Greece, he moved to Bratislava for work as his country currently has 40% unemployment. Thank goodness I befriended him, because after we chatted for a bit, I fell asleep; had he not told me, I would have stayed on the train (which I believe was headed to Prague), rather than get off at the right stop. My host picked me up at the stop and we headed to 'Goblins' an Irish bar promoting smoking. I wasn't really comfortable there as there was no open window; that may have been the most smoky environment I've ever been in. After a while, I had to tell my host that I would wait for him outside. I love couch surfing, but at this moment (and my overall experience with my Bratislava host in general), I was really thinking the opposite. Luckily, we walked back to his place shortly after.

Because I had thought I left my camera battery in Budapest and was planning how and where I would get a replacement, I didn't leave the house until late. Luckily I ended up finding the battery at the bottom of my purse, so despite the late departure, I happily left the house on my way to a Bratislava Free Tour. With three amazing free tours in Budapest, I was hoping to get an equally awesome experience. Unfortunately, the experience was not nearly as good as the first three, but I still stayed with the group for about two hours.

We met in front of the Slovak National Theatre; hosting opera, ballet, and drama performance, it is the oldest Slovak professional theatre. We began the tour with a group photo.

Shortly after, we headed to the most photographed statue in Bratislava, Cumil. Wiki writes, "This guy, residing in the Old Town, dates back only to 1997, but Bratislavians and tourists love him. Children like to abuse him by sitting on his head. More than once has he been damaged car drivers. Heated discussions have taken place as to what actually the man is up to - you have to decide whether he is simply resting, looking up women's skirts, just cleaned the sewer..." We also passed by Grassalkovich Palace, the current residence of the President, as well as various famous churches and buildings. Unfortunately, I felt like the tour guide's explanations were lacking, and we never got close enough to the structures to take pictures.

I decided to leave and headed to the Slavin war memorial and cemetery for the fallen soviet army who fell in WWII when liberating  the city in April 1945. Although the city is not large, Slavin is situated a bit of a walk from the city center on the top of a large hill. Unable to find the exact location about half the way up, I asked two locals, who spoke absolutely no English. With some good gestures, they pointed me in the right direction; however, I overlooked the correct point that I should have turned and retreated back to the locals. Again, not understanding what they said, they directed me to their car. A bit hesitant, I was reminded of the time I was in Nagasaki trying to hike up a hill and ended up hitch hiking. They seemed harmless enough, though, and fortunately, guided me to the right path where I was able to finish the climb to the statue. Slavin was undoubtedly a sullen sight; so much death occurred during WWII. I enjoyed the overlook from the top of the mountain, then headed back to the city center.

For such a small city, Bratislava surprisingly has the seventh largest hanging bridge in the world; a distinct 'UFO' tower frames the side opposite of the center. When I was finally able to find it, I boarded a bus headed to Devin Castle. Atop a cliff at the confluence of the Danube and Morava rivers, the castle gave a stunning view of the landscape; although out of the way and a bit of an inconvenience to get to, I was very glad that I decided to head this way. The castle grounds include a sprawling area of walls, gardens, courtyards, and staircases. Unfortunately the bus back to the city only runs twice an hour, so it was a bit late before I was finally able to make it to the city center around 6 PM.

The key landmark of the city, overlooking the majority of the land with views of Bratislava, Austria, and supposedly at good times Hungary, Bratislava Castle dominates the main hill in the city. Concerned that I was going to get a poor view since it was late, I was pleasantly surprised to be greeted by a glowing castle in the light of the sunset. The view of the UFO Tower from the top of mountain was great, as well. The largest and one of the oldest churches in the city, St. Martin's Cathedral, is difficult to see from ground level as the buildings are rather short and the church was situated close to the highway. From Bratislava Castle, though, one is able to obtain a great view.

Having seen all of the main sites in one day, I headed back to my host's flat. I was frustrated as my host played a board game while I unsuccessfully searched for a train or bus to Vienna. Rather unhelpful, my host's roommates were actually the ones who aided me more. Nevertheless, I ended up finding a solution. Unfortunately, I had to stop at the same 'Goblins' bar for a mere 20 minutes with my bags before I headed to the bus. Although I really enjoyed the city and am thankful that my couch surfing host let me stay at his flat, I was not disappointed to leave his company.

Budapest

I arrived rather late in the evening with no clue what to do once I got to the station; to be honest, I would have no idea how to find my hostel had another girl on the bus not known which train to take or the people walking around the area near my house not known which direction I should head. Nevertheless, I was rather calm and found my hostel after only a slight bit of confusion.

Zen Hostel is tiny, with only 2 rooms, a 3 person and an 8 person. However, it was the best hostel I've ever stayed at! Offered wine as soon as I checked in, Imi was the most helpful host (I say host because he was that personable) I could have imagined. Although I paid at check-in, he even offered to let me pay the following day. I only intended to stay one evening, but he also said it was fine if I left my items there all day. After I settled in, I went to a bar with another girl at the hostel to meet up with the same girl I met on the bus to Budapest. After a few attempts, the other girl and I could not find my bus friend, so we decided to head back to the main bar street. Then the most random thing happened -- I ran into one of the friends I had made at the Q-Center in St. Charles for Accenture, Guillaume.

Guillaume and I had spoke about potentially meeting up but had thought our days wouldn't overlap and gave up. We were literally walking down the street when we saw each other; I could not have had a better surprise! The other girl and I joined Guillaume and his friends at a bar for a drink, where we stayed for a little while before trying out another place.

Budapest is famous for their 'ruin pubs,' run-down  buildings re-purposed to be bars. The flavor is eclectic and unlike any other type of bar you've probably seen. Without knowing it, we headed to one of the famous ruin pubs. After a while, I was messaged by another friend from Chicago who was coincidentally also in Budapest, Kirk. However, by the time we finally got to the bar they were at, they were heading out to another bar; I joined Kirk and his friends, but Guillaume and his friends went to get food. The night didn't last much longer, though, and after a short while, I headed back to my hostel.

Day 2:
Having stayed up rather late the night before, I began my day with a free walking tour at eleven. The tour was excellent, giving a great overview of the history of Budapest. We walked across the famous Chain bridge lined with a pair of lions at each end. Like Pittsburgh, the hill on the other side of the bridge has an incline like structure that they call the Funicular. We opted to walk up the hill, instead, exploring the Buda Castle District. The top of the stairs led us to the Royal Palace, and from there we were able to see the beautiful Matthias Church and Fishermen’s Bastion just a few steps away. The views overlooking Buda Hill to the Pest side from the Fishermens Bastion were breath taking. After a terrific introduction to Budapest, the tour ended after around three hours. Myself and another tour attendee walked to the Gellert Statue on Gellert Hill, then walked back towards the Pest side to the Opera for a free outdoor show. We only caught a few minutes, but it was very interesting modern piece. The cast wore neon colors with Alice in Wonderland-esque make-up.

Nearing the end of the day, I headed back to the hostel to get my things, where Imi kindly let me call my host and I was able to move my stuff to Ramin's place literally a block from the hostel. I was shocked that, despite a great location by the opera and the common Andrassy Avenue, Ramin spends only 400 euros (if I recall correctly) a month. He has one bedroom, although the second floor bedroom split the kitchen ceiling in half; perhaps this might be a problem for tall people, but for myself and Ramin of the hobbit-type, it was no problem. Ramin has been living in Hungary for a few years working, but is not originally from there and as such, does not speak Hungarian and is currently taking classes.

After unpacking, I went to Saturday mass in Hungarian at St. Stephen's Basilica. I met up with Ramin at 6:15, and he showed me the main street, Andrássy Avenue, one of the most expensive streets lined with extravagant houses and high-end designer retail. At the end of the street lies Heroes' Square with the where the Millenium Memorial acts as the centerpiece. The Museum of Fine Arts and Palace of Arts flank the square on each side. Toward the back part of the square, Széchenyi Bath and Vajdahunyad Castle; from a distance, Ramin showed me both. After a long day of touring, I met up with Guillaume again, although we didn't stay up as late the second evening.

Day 3:
I started the day off at the Museum known as the House of Terror; right of Andrássy út, it contains the exhibits related to the fascist and communist dictatorial regimes in 20th-century Hungary and is also a memorial to those detained, interrogated, tortured or killed in the building. It was shocking to see such tragedies, and it was even more terrible that my American history education had never informed me of such inhumane acts that took place in this country. While I love America, the ignorance that it has left me towards the history of any country other than the U.S.A often makes me frustrated.

The tour guide from the previous day recognized the Castle in the Rock Museum, so I headed there next. Located on the Buda side, I literally ran the way there. This museum displays the Secret Emergency Hospital and Nuclear Bunker from WWII. It was only a brief hour-long tour, but gave a good view into the means that the citizens had to go through during those times.

Trying to get to a Red Communism Tour on the Pest side, again, I literally ran. Luckily, the tour guides were absolutely fantastic, and like the first tour, I learned countless facts about how the country encountered communism. With no tropical fruit, I heard how oranges became a coveted item during Christmas. Blue jeans were sold on the black market. Leaving the country was absolutely unheard of. We walked passed nuclear bomb shelters; I was even surprised to see a Ronald Reagan statue that was created to honor his efforts in ending communism.

I was shocked to see how communism and infiltrated every aspect of a Hungarian's life. I also felt blessed to be born in a country where communism was never a problem that I had to deal with.

Day 4:
Budapest is a relatively large city in comparison to Warsaw and Krakow. South of where I was staying, the Central Market Hall is a huge building holding hundred of market stalls selling meats, produce, and various souvenirs. I started my day at the hall, buying a postcard, shotglass, and small toy for Juli. On the Buda side, Gellert Hill, which I briefly stopped at on my first day of touring, was my next stop. Crossing the green liberty bridge, I ran towards the foot of the hill where the famous Gellert Hotel and Baths mark the entrance. I walked to the top of the hill where I saw the ginormous Liberty Statue; although it was built by the Soviet Army to commemorate the success in the second world war, it now honors those who sacrificed their lives for Hungary's prosperity. From the peak of the hill, I was able to get views down the gorgeous Danube river. Of course I was reminded of the view from Mount Washington in Pittsburgh, where rivers cross the city as far as one can see. Walking further, I passed the Gellert Statue again, walking across the Chain Bridge to my third and final tour of the Jewish Community.

At one point in history, people of Jewish descent were restricted to a Jewish quarter. As a result, there is a certain district on the Pest side of the city with a high concentration of Jewish buildings and synagogues. In fact, the largest Synagogue in Europe is located here. The tour guide took us on a walk through the sites, giving us the sad details of the Jewish tradition but also the positive hope in recent years.

I ended my day the best possible way -- by going to Széchenyi Bath. I met up with Jan, one of the other tourists on the first tour that I took. Meeting around seven, we spent the next three hours soaking in the various baths and even trying the saunas at the end. By the end of my stay, I was completely relaxed. After running everywhere around the city, it was a perfect evening. It was also nice that Jan had invited me; although relaxing, it would have been quite lonely to go alone.

Day 5:
My final day in Budapest began at Budapest's Fine Arts Museum. By Heroes' Square, it wasn't too far from my host's flat. With El Grego, Francisco de Goya, and other famous painters, I was surprised at the extensive collection that was displayed. I was in love with every gallery.

I booked a Parliament tour in the afternoon, so had to duck out early to run towards the west side of the Pest part of the city. Unfortunately, since it was Tuesday, Parliament was in session and the tour was cut short. As a result, I only saw the entrance hall to the building, as well as the crown jewels. I was a bit disappointed in the poor tour quality, and the fact that it had cut so much time from my day. Nevertheless, I headed back to the art museum to finish  viewing the pieces.

One of the places I was told that I must see was Margaret island. Positioned between Buda and Pest, it is merely a small island with a park and some baths. I was actually disappointed in the general normalcy of the island and was expecting something more special for how many great things I had heard about it. Nevertheless, I ran around the island, getting spectacular photos of the city skyline.

Before I knew it, it was time to return home and take the bus to Bratislava.

Krakow

Mid train ride, I got a message from my couch surfing host saying that she could not be there until midnight. My options were to wait for her or take a taxi; these are two things I always fear in a foreign country: getting stranded alone at night and getting scammed. Without much background, this may seem normal, but leading up to the day I was arriving, the girl hadn't been very reliable with little communication. In fact, earlier in the day I had requested another couch surfer for an emergency couch since I did not think she was still planning for me to come. Additionally, when I called her with my friend's phone is Warsaw, there seemed to be an apparent language barrier. With stories of couch surfers' hosts never coming, leaving them stranded, I feared that the same would happen to me.

I had become friends with the other guy I was taking the train with, Adam, a technical physics major studying in Krakow. He soon asked if I'd like to watch a movie with him. Shocked I'd never seen pulp fiction, he soon set up his computer and we were soon enjoying the thriller. That is, until the couch surfer contacted me, which immediately made me nervous. Shortly after the initial message, however, I got a text from another number that said the person was leaving now and would be at the station soon. Extremely confused, I resolved to stay at a hostel and my new polish friend offered to walk me to one.

Upon arrival, I got a message that said the surfer was at the station waiting in a different area. Even more confused since I messaged the person that I would stay at a hostel, I figured I should let the person know not to wait.

I became even more confused when the person that came to pick me up was a boy, not a girl.... I soon quickly realized that the second phone number that was messaging me was not the original couch surfer I was planning on staying with. While I thought the two numbers were the same person, the second was was actually the surfer that I had contacted earlier that morning about hosting me as an emergency couch.

Excessively long story short, I made it to the second couch surfers house. The first apparently came looking for me much later, despite telling her I was not comfortable and would stay at a hostel. While I felt and feel terrible about the miscommunication, most importantly, I managed to stay alive and wasn't picked up by a rapist or stranded.

Day 1: Auschwitz

Tons of tour groups offer trips to Auschwitz for  approximately 140zl, which I was planning on booking (3.12 PLN for each US Dollar). My host, Krzysztof, refused to let me pay this, though, and told me how to get there by public transportation. Nearly two hours of tram and bus riding later, I was in the town of Oświęcim. The tour guide first took us to Auschwitz I, the camp with the famous gate that bears the motto "Arbeit Macht Frei” (Work makes one free) and location of the only remaining gas chamber.

We walked through the cramped living quarters, or rather "living" quarters as I wouldn't call that life. While a bunk bed is a familiar site, their bunks were something else. Much wider to fit more people than usual that would lay in one bed, and consisting of three levels, happy memories of childhood don't come to mind upon viewing them. Apparently the center bunk was the best; although the middle was cramped, tight quarters were the only major problem. By contrast, the bottom level sleepers had to lay in mud when it rained, and the top level sleepers had to fight any weather that leaked through the roof.

We also viewed rooms upon rooms that held the confiscated items of the members. Of all the rooms, the one that held mountains of the prisoners' hair was the most disturbing. After the gas chambers, everyone's head was shaved. Used to weave fabric, cloth that was created by the victims' hair was later tested to have the toxic gas. It was an undoubtedly eery feeling walking through the camp as I knew everywhere I stepped, some one had probably died there; in the gas chambers, who knows how many must have been murdered.

We then boarded a bus to Auschwitz II, Birkenau, the location of the famous railway picture and the home of the two larger but now destroyed gas chambers. Here, we also saw the latrines. Long buildings of a series of toilets and sinks where people had no privacy. Workers were allowed to use the toilet but twice a day, once before and after work. However, as the facilities were quite limited for so many people, only the strongest managed to use them.

The day was rainy and cold, an absolute miserable da, although quite fitting for such a depressing experience. Walking along the railway outside where the prisoners were dropped off, I couldn't wait for the tour to end just so I could be dry and warm again. The entire tour I couldn't help but think how I would have never survived. Sensitive to cold, I despise the 10 months in Chicago when it's winter. And yet, the people here lasted much colder weather in Poland with no proper clothing; emaciated, the prisoners had little personal insulation as well.

Upon returning to Krakow and meeting up with Krzysztof, I was cold and emotionally exhausted. When I went to buy grapes at the market, misread the prices twice due to poor labeling (all in polish) and became frustrated when I couldn't buy the correct item, I actually cried at the register.

Day 2: Salt Mines, Schindler's Factory, and Krakow town area
Hoping for a better day, Krzysztof helped me pick indoor things to see since the weather called for rain again. The salt mines were a tram and bus ride away to Wieczelka. Hundreds of metres below ground, the tunnels of the mines all carved out of salt were amazing. The floor looked tiled and the walls glistened. Incredible ice sculptures of dwarfs, pope John Paul II, and paintings such as the last supper decorated the caverns. In fact, several cathedrals were created for the miners. Despite the far journey from the surface, horses were also kept below to help with the labour. Because salt excavation from evaporation is cheaper, these mines are no longer functioning as they were in the past. Salt blocks worth great riches when the mines were in their hey day can be mass-produced for much less in the world. Regardless, the tour gave a beautiful overview of what used to be a vital part of the economy and salt industry.

A shift in cultural focus, I next headed to Kachimirez, the Jewish district, where the Schindler's Factory museum resides. Here unfolds the years of repression that the Polish Jews experienced; with information detailing everything from the ghetto to the concentration camps, the evidence of pure human cruelty permeates the museum walls. The name of the museum is Despite the title of the museum, but one small display is devoted to Schindler's involvement. And although a small display, his factories helped to save the lives of over a thousand Jewish Poles.

The day still early and the weather nice, I headed to the central market to see most of Krakow's most famous attractions. I thought Warsaw had a lot of Catholic churches, but Krakow undoubtedly beats the capital city for the sheer number of regal, decorated churches.  In my experiences in America, when I see a truly lavish church, it is rare, and when I do, it is usually the most beautiful in the area. By contrast, each and every cathedral I stepped into was breath taking. They were all of Hogwarts proportions, with high ceilings painted precisely, lined with the best molding, filled with hand crafted furniture,  and decorated with colorful stained glass and invaluable paintings. Additionally, many kept the remains of famous Poles or important persons.

Another notable set of structures are those related to what used to compose an important defense system: St. Florian's Gate and the Barbican. The barbican served as a main tower leading to the gate through which the , city could be entered. Although surrounded by gardens now, in the past, the entire city was once surrounded by walls.

The center of the downtown area is the Cloth Hall. Formerly the location where most trading and with between resident was done, it serves as a main tourist point of interest with countless restaurants, cafes, shops, and a few museums. A statue of one of Poland's famous poets, a large clock tower, and fountains also stand prominent.

Day 3: Castle, Polish Home Army Museum, and Underground Museum
I started my morning at Wawel Castle; I viewed the state rooms, crown treasury and armoury, and walked around Wawel hill, filled with several old buildings and fortifications. I ended my trip at the top of Sandomierska Tower, giving a view over the Vistula river to the other side of the city. I left the castle through the 'Dragon's Den', which was nothing more than large caves that lead to the exit. I guess since there is a legend that a voracious dragon used to live there, causing the entrance fee, but had I known how unexciting it would be, I would have preferred to spend my time elsewhere.

In retrospect a poor decision since it was so far, I walked to the Polish Home Army Museum. Normally I would have spent time at an art museum, but Krzysztof had heard from a friend that it was good and highly recommended it. Although it was in the middle of nowhere and not regularly visited, causing it to be much harder to find than I expected, I thought it was well worth it. In fact, I preferred it to Schindler's Factory and the Warsaw Uprising Museum. It gave an excellent account of the impact of the war on Poland and, in my opinion, a better overview rather than focus on a specific uprising or group of people.

Because I had a ticket for the Underground Museum at 6:15, my stay was shorter than I would have liked since the walk back to the center is quite far. Not too long ago, the layers below the Sukiennice were discovered to be filled with ancient streets in an archaeological dig. Displaying an old cemetary, cellers, and former shops, it gives a view of how the town used to look in the past. Unfortunately, I thought the presentation was quite juvenile, so I was a bit disappointed in it. Nevertheless, it was quite interesting to see the relics of the archaeological dig.

Day 4: Krakow Art Museum and ride to Budapest
As my bus didn't leave until 2:30 on my final day, I headed to the Krakow Art Museum in the morning. Since the museum had absolutely nothing written in English, I opted for an audio guide that gave a good overview of the artifacts. Unfortunately, I didn't have much time, so I didn't spend much time in the armour or decorative arts section, choosing to spend the little time I had on the paintings, which I prefer much more. Worried about the time, I literally ran to the bus station, where I met Krzysztof and found my bus to Budapest.

Warsaw

The week before my trip was probably one of my busiest as I was transitioning my tasks for next 17 days of PTO and was also sick. Needless to say, I barely planned and wasn't packed on Friday. I had a vague idea of where I was staying and had some train plans outlined, but no tickets were bought nor reservations made. Rushing home from work at 5:30 PM, I somehow miraculously packed and was out of the house with my 2 carry-on bags by 7PM. Arriving at the airport at 8PM, I was an hour and forty five minutes early for my flight; never in my life has "Taylor Time" been so completely destroyed. I luckily had an aisle seat for the 10:15 Lufthansa flight, but I was not so lucky when it came to getting a vegan meal. The air hostesses were the most accommodating, nice, friendly people in the world, however. When I inquired about the menu options, the flight attendant said that she could offer me fruit since all dinners had meat or cheese; when she came back, I had to hold myself back from laughing. I was expecting some small fruit cup, but instead my meal looked like a fruit platter with a banana, apple, giant slice of pineapple, and elephant-portioned slice of watermelon overflowing on my tray.  The flight was uneventful and arriving in Frankfurt was painless as I didn't check a bag. My following trip from Frankfurt to Warsaw was awesome as well since the empty seats beside me allowed me to sprawl out and sleep.

Having had no time to plan the week before, my plan landing in Warsaw was for a couch surfer to pick me up. Relying on trust and good people, I was, needless to say, a bit hesitant. Departing the baggage claim area, I was quite anxious to see whether this couch surfer would show up. Fortunately, Tom was right there as he said he'd be. We made a quick stop at the ATM and arrived in the downtown area around 6PM.

With my last meal around 7 AM Poland time, the first thing we did was stop for dinner. Using happycow.net (a website with vegan restaurant listings), we stopped at a vegetarian cafe and had the night's meal: rice with a nutty topping, a cauliflower-broccoli curry dish, a lettuce salad, some sort of patty with a tomato sauce, a lentil dish, and a pumpkin soup. It wasn't the best food I've eaten, but it was certainly filling and very conveniently located downtown. We then walked down the main street, Nowy Świat, where countless cute cafes, churches, and historic buildings are, contributing to a very cute and relaxing ambience. After the walk through Old Town, we took a break for some tea at Polyester Cafe. I learned some interesting things here: unlike Asia, cafes have free wifi like America; many public bathrooms are dual sex, missing toilet paper, and smell; and they don't serve you water for free. It's a little disheartening that every time you want water, it comes out of a bottle.

We next met up with Tom's friends at what is apparently a fancier bar in Warsaw but were there for only a few minutes before my host for the night, Aga, called that she was there. We stopped back at her flat for a few moments to drop off my stuff and allow her to refresh herself, then headed back out to the bars.

The first place was a rather casual bar, but I still managed to take a Polish vodka shot with a local, chased with coca cola. The vodka was not clear as most that you see in America but had a brownish tint due to the way it was processed. We next went to a livelier place where there was dancing and the atmosphere was much more club like. We did not get to the first bar until half passed midnight, but somehow it was all of a sudden six am. The hours between approximately two thirty and six were filled were various clubs and lots of dancing....We headed to a mediterranean place for some falafel, then finally went home. I have never in my life been out until that late until the sun started rising; needless to say, it was a successful first night in Warsaw.


Day 2:
Due to the late night, I did not manage to rise until around two thirty PM. Despite this, I was still able to get a pretty good local tour. We headed to Łazienki Królewskie Palace Garden Complex, which is a beautiful park filled with the Palace and its accompanying buildings. An extension to this area displays a Chopin Statue, flanked by a piano, and since it was Sunday, an incredible pianist was performing Chopin pieces for a free concert that is held weekly. After, Tom drove Aga and to his favorite library. On the roof was a spectacular garden that gave an exquisite view of Praga, the area east of the Vistula river. They told me how the river was a point of divide among the citizens, and much of the eastern part is poorer and less developed. After the library visit, we stopped at an art gallery showing where his friend was displaying unique lamps that he created. As his friend was not at the show yet, we drove through a little bit of Praga where I was able to see their sport stadium and take in the less tourist traveled route. When people tell me I am crazy for couch surfing, this is an example of a reason why I love it; had I simply stayed at a hostel or hotel, I never would have visited any of these things and gotten the opportunity to see a much different side of the city.

As it was already late due to the late start, Aga and I headed to her favorite church for mass. It was definitely an experience as I understood zero of the service; it was also interesting to experience mass in such a dimly lit room. During communion I was further surprised to see that very few people took communion. I do not take communion if I miss one week but would consider myself a rarity in America as most take communion any time they go to mass, despite their previous attendance or sins. Aga told me that this is typical in Poland; even she did not take communion because she felt that she must go to confession before taking it at mass. After the service, we met up with Tom and his friend who had the art show, Maciej, at Tel Aviv Cafe for a quick drink before heading home.

Day 3:
Tom first helped me get my train ticket to Krakow in the morning, and then he dropped me off at The Warsaw Uprising Museum. It gave a very depressing albeit informative view of Warsaw's involvement in WWII. I then spent the rest of the day touring the gorgeous city and met up with Tom, Maciej, and Aga for dinner. I also was communicating with a vegan from Warsaw that I met through instagram; she took us to her favorite vegan burger place in Warsaw where we had seitan and chickpea burgers. It was a great way to end my stay in Warsaw. Despite having stayed there for only a short time, I already had inside jokes with them and was very sad to leave.